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Springtime Snow

March 13, 2017 by byerswithoutborders Leave a Comment

We had planned a weekend excursion to Punakha, the former capital of Bhutan. But the Himalayas had other plans, and surprised us with a spring snow. With the 10,000 foot Dochu La pass to Punakha closed, we bundled up and headed out for the girls first ever snowball fight. 

This was actually the first snowfall of the year in the Thimphu valley, and a national holiday was declared by the King. Early in the day the streets were packed with merrymakers, all wishing us a “happy snowfall”. Groups of Bhutanese, young and old, faced off on opposite sides of the road and pelted each other with snowballs. At home I would be concerned that Stella might get caught up in the crossfire as we made our way through town. But with typical Bhutanese politeness, every group we passed would ask “would you like to play?” before targeting us. Taxies with snowmen frozen to their roofs roamed by, occasionally launching a snowball from an open window. 

Even the memorial Chorten, normally a site of solemn prayer and meditation, got caught up in the playful antics. 

I’ve never seen such a festive and happy celebration of a snowfall. It’s as if the entire city spontaneously reverted to 8 year old  children, free from school on a snow day. 

Please click the link if you would like to make a donation in serving the people of Bhutan.

Filed Under: Bhutan Tagged With: Bhutan, byers to bhutan, family adventure, family travel, health volunteers overseas, himalayan adventure, living in Bhutan, overseas volunteers, Travel Bhutan, travel overseas

Himalayan Adventure: Our First Few Days

March 6, 2017 by byerswithoutborders Leave a Comment

98% of a big fat Himalayan adventure is figuring out the mundane. How do you charge a laptop, make a local call, find bathroom cleaner. 

Our first days in Bhutan are behind us and we’re starting to get our sea legs. 

The kids have learned to sleep with vests over their PJs and everyone congregates on the electric blanket when reading. There’s no insulation or central heating so our apartment (at 8600 feet) is pretty chilly. 

We’re slowly getting the hang of making meals for five on an electric hot plate. And no one needs to be reminded not to brush their teeth with tap water (we have a gravity filter the size of a mini-keg that constantly needs refilling). 

It was a pretty productive weekend setting up our home here. We got local phone numbers, internet for the apartment, and made it to the weekend market (the only place to get fresh vegetables). And all of this in a blend of English and Dzongkha, a language similar to Tibetan and heavy with Z and Shu sounds. 

It wasn’t all chores, though. Yesterday we hiked up to Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest Monastery). This ancient structure clings to the side of a cliff 2700 feet above the floor of Paro valley.

Guru Rinpoche (an aspect of the second Buddha, Padmasambava) is said to have flown to the site on the back of a tigress to subdue a local demon. As such we shared the arduous climb with Bhutanese pilgrims. 

The site of so many blond heads scampering through the rhododendron forest was quite the spectacle for many of these locals, who were all smiles. 

In fact, we’re always a bit of a spectacle when we leave the apartment. There are so few westerners here. And even fewer western children. And I’m sure we’re traveling with the only western twins in the country. Which explains why the second word we learned in Dzongkha, after Hello, was the word for twins… Nima Dauwa. 

Let our Himalayan Adventure continue…….

Filed Under: Bhutan Tagged With: Bhutan, family adventure, health volunteers overseas, himalayan adventure, Home away from home, Medical Mission, our first few days, overseas volunteers

V-Day is for Visas

February 13, 2017 by byerswithoutborders Leave a Comment

This blog post is written by talented husband Bill…….

V-Day is for Visas

At two weeks to departure and still no travel Visas, I awoke again with knots in my stomach. My hospital liaison has been steadfast in her insistence that they will arrive. She reminds me that Bhutan is a Buddhist country and that even their bureaucrats embrace the attitude of a natural unfolding of events. Apparently, my insomnia and acid reflux are part of this unfolding. Or, things just move slowly in tiny Himalayan countries. 

The significance of a non-tourist travel visa to Bhutan should not be diminished. This country only allows foreign tourists inside its borders on state sanctioned packaged tours that are taxed at $200-250 per day, per person. Trying to get my gang of five in for free has been a paperwork decathlon. Imagine filing your taxes using an abacus and carrier pigeons.  We’re talking
about a country that didn’t receive television signals until June 2, 1999. 

With thousands of dollars worth of plane tickets already purchased and over a month of school and work canceled, I think my anxiety is more than just a symptom of my non-Buddha nature. 

But during my run today, I was finally able to let the worry slip away. Maybe it was just oxygen debt, but I finally was able to concede that what’s left is beyond my control. I’ve done all that I can. Worrying will do no more. 

And then they came.


These Buddhists are already in my head.

Filed Under: Bhutan Tagged With: Bhutan, Bhutan visas, family adventure, Travel Bhutan, visas

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